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Hoboken has enjoyed a culinary renaissance in the past few years as cafes, trattorias, and bistros have sprouted up like drenched Gremlins. There's no need to travel far to enjoy the gustatory pleasures of the world as the tastes and smells from hundreds of cultures have found their way to Sinatra's birthplace.

But as far as I'm concerned, these apostles of fine dining and exquisite cuisine finally have a messiah to follow on Willow Avenue between 15th and 16th streets. It is there, at an untitled eatery commonly referred to as the "Yellow Truck," where you can be completely satisfied while waiting for a bus.

I first discovered this hidden gem a few months ago when it occurred to me that the smoke rising from this hippie-colored vehicle was probably not the fire I had previously assumed it was for two weeks. I guess that didn't make much sense anyway, as the smell of a singed automobile has rarely had the effect of stirring my appetite.

Perhaps a second cousin of Mister Softee, the Yellow Truck frowns upon making burritos at high speeds and, instead, has opted to keep its kitchen in the same spot for over a decade. Of course, that is not so surprising when one considers how hard it is to find parking in Hoboken. That was not always the case. The owner of the truck, Chef Pedro, recalls the days when he used to make the rounds throughout the city. But times have changed, and he realized that he had to make some adjustments when he found himself getting towed while making a chicken fajita.

One of the most interesting aspects of this unique dining experience occurs when you first approach. Decorated with sidewalks, curbs, and a gutter, the Yellow Truck is one of those special places that allow people to experience the joy of greasy food in the midst of a traffic jam. In an era where fine cuisine has seen the beauty of "al fresco" dining follow the path of the Dodo bird, it is refreshing to know that there is a restaurateur completely devoted to its preservation. Because of its established cult following, morning lines span from 10 to 12 feet behind the service window. On any given day, six anxious customers stare at the cracked cement in utter silence and daydream about the carefully prepared meal they are about to consume.

Others wait in awe, staring at the panoramic wonders that make the Yellow Truck's location a hot ticket in every real estate agent's mind. With stunning views of a viaduct, car wash, and warehouse, the scenery can only be described as breathtaking, especially when one takes into account the levels of carbon monoxide in the surrounding area.

One thing is clear, though. The regulars at the truck - who often have the pretense of being hip insiders - know the drill, and it is important for newcomers to pick up on this drill as soon as possible for fear of disturbing the chef's concentration.

Chef Pedro, who also serves as the restaurant's proprietor, cashier, and dishwasher, has instilled a few fundamental guidelines for his customers to follow.

First of all, you must tell Pedro what you want to eat. No guessing games in this place of business. Secondly, all customers must compensate the Yellow Truck for the food with a certain amount of money. Once people can follow this routine, the awkwardness of being a fledgling customer immediately vanishes.

If you're interested in indulging in culinary grace, then you must make it a priority to order the tacos. Making it very clear on the menu, which, incidentally, also serves as the exterior wall of the restaurant, the Yellow Truck only serves "Mexican Tacos." I must say that I found this to be a huge relief, as the tacos prepared by Hungarians have always lacked a certain something in my experience. In addition, the menu includes several other items that are best prepared with Latin recipes, such as burritos, fajitas, and borscht.

Unfortunately, there is not much to be said of the Yellow Truck's wine list. Mainly because it doesn't have one. However, patrons may order a variety of soft beverages that are guaranteed to come in a can. Or, if you prefer to get a bigger dose of caffeine, you might try the Styrofoam-contained cup of coffee that Pedro has described as a "big seller." Cashing in on the modern enterprise of flavored coffees, Pedro has tagged on the option of adding sugar.

But the most impressive part about this wall-in-the-hole eatery are its reasonable prices, which range anywhere from $3 to $5 per person, making it an opportune place to have a lunch date. I, myself, recently took a very pretty woman to this well-kept secret on a sunny afternoon. As she leaned against the chain-link fence in front of the truck, grabbing a burrito with one hand and holding on to a Sprite with the other, I knew that the sights and sounds of vehicles bound for the Lincoln Tunnel had caught her by surprise.

In fact, I should warn you that this place might be too good for its own good. My date said it would be hard "to match this experience," and, subsequently, has declined to go out with me since. I guess I'll have to take someone else to that four-star Times Square potato knish cart. q